Fumo Caffe e Vino

One room on Amsterdam Avenue runs two menus depending on the hour: espresso, tea, and sandwiches like avocado toast or bacon, egg, and provolone by day, then a build-your-own charcuterie and cheese board plus whipped ricotta with focaccia once the evening menu starts at 4. It's run by the Fumo group, whose original Harlem restaurant sits just across the street, part of a chain that has grown to four locations around the city. Bruschetta and other Italian snacks round out the wine list, which pours by the glass or the bottle alongside the boards.