Renaissance Harlem

Jollof rice and plantains come alongside a roasted half chicken at this Harlem restaurant, where cousins Cisse Elhadji and Cheikh Ali Cisse, who came to New York from Senegal in 1995, put French training to West African and American flavors. Both men cut their teeth under Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Daniel Boulud before opening this as their third restaurant together, and their most ambitious yet. Wings arrive in a spicy African sauce that also turns up on the calamari. Named for the neighborhood's 1920s cultural flowering, the dining room plays music that drifts from '90s R&B to Afrobeats, kept low enough to talk over.