El Kallejon

Nestor Leon Fortanel opened this East Harlem restaurant in 2012, modeling its look on an alleyway in Mexico City, where every wall carries Huichol cats, rainbow pinatas, and sugar skulls. He still works the room some nights, pouring mezcal and sotol next to cocktails dressed in fruit and flowers. The kitchen crosses Mexican tradition with Japanese and French technique, plating escargot in a pasilla sauce and beef brain flautas dusted with tobiko. There's a back patio for warmer nights.