Unregular Pizza

Gabriele Lamonaca opened this Union Square pizzeria during the pandemic, baking square, Roman-style pies rather than New York's round ones. The signature Burrapizza tops a slice with a whole ball of burrata. Pink and blue lighting runs through the dining room, giving it a look built as much for phone cameras as for eating. One food blog's two visits turned up two different pizzerias: a mushroom slice crisp and full of umami, and a Grandma Peppina slice that came out charred.