Il Nonno

Fernando Pliego and his daughter Grissel Garcia run Il Nonno on Astoria Boulevard, cooking a menu that runs from penne arrabbiata with salmon to a squid-ink linguine made in house. Outdoor tables are set with white tablecloths and wicker chairs, and a wide front window lets the small dining room look onto the street. Dessert leans homemade, tiramisu and a saffron-and-lavender poached pear among them, with only the gelato bought in.