Trattoria Ora

Ray Besi and his wife Mimi, who's from Montenegro, run this Astoria Boulevard trattoria out of a renovated dining room with a white leather banquette, dark wood tables, and candlelight. The kitchen makes its pasta to order (bowtie Farfalle Dolcino with shrimp and asparagus, a Bolognese tagliatelle, a shrimp risotto) and finishes dinner with in-house tiramisu and apple strudel. Ray pours the wine himself, uncorking Chianti from Fratelli Nistri table-side and refilling glasses through the meal. There's a bar up front for a drink with friends before or after dinner.