Sylla

Below the Metro-North tracks in East Harlem, this understated West African dining room serves Ivorian food with the owner on hand to walk newcomers through the menu. Kedjenou, a guinea fowl stew, and grilled mackerel with crackling skin share the menu with alloco, a version of fried plantain, and a mutton shank. It's built for a casual dinner or takeout more than a sit-down occasion, with walk-ins welcome until 2am.