The Ten Bells

Natural wine has poured out of this Broome Street bar since 2008, built around small, overlooked producers rather than the usual France-and-Italy staples. The room stays dark and a little worn, wrapped around a long bar with a handful of high-tops, communal enough that a solo visitor and a table of six end up equally at home. Food runs mostly Basque and unfussy: jamón ibérico de bellota next to mac and cheese, meant to go with the wine rather than replace a meal. Pours by the glass are generous and mostly inexpensive, and the register is cash only.