Bar Oliver

On our list of the best wine bars in New York.

This Two Bridges pintxos bar takes its cues from San Sebastian, pairing on-tap vermouth with a haze of cigarette smoke that channels a real Basque bar. There's no hard liquor: vermouth carries the drink list, backed by French and Spanish wine and beer. Small plates include gildas, a wet-centered potato tortilla, grilled eggplant, Montauk shrimp and a returning wagyu hanger steak. Reservations run through Resy, though the mixed crowd of gallery-goers and neighborhood regulars mostly treats it as a place to linger.