Nozomi

The owner married into a family that runs a sea urchin delivery business, so Nozomi's uni ships in before it reaches other restaurants. The omakase runs ten pieces of nigiri plus a toro and green onion hand roll, built from fish that goes beyond the usual toro and seared albacore: snow crab, surf clam, mackerel, halibut, whatever came in that day. Chefs work the counter, focused on the fish but ready to talk through it if you ask.