Saolea

Saolea took over the West Village space that once held Red Bamboo and built its menu around Thai flavors paired with wine rather than the usual beer or cocktails. Six wines are poured by the glass alongside a short sake list, in a room that plays Nathaniel Rateliff over paintings of pets on the walls. Snacks lean shareable: skinned cherry tomatoes dressed like a papaya salad, a scallop crudo, and for something more substantial, beef tongue with lettuce wraps, three sauces and a pot of garlic fried rice. Reservations open on a rolling basis, and a few seats are held back each night for walk-ins.