Le Baratin NYC

Two brothers who run the floor themselves opened this West Village bistro in 2013, packing small tables close together for a menu of foie gras, escargots and steak tartare. The coq au vin sticks to tradition, while a truffled gnocchi departs from it with dumplings that stay light and creamy, and mussels marinieres arrive with thick, skin-on fries. The wine list is French-heavy but includes affordable bottles from Burgundy, and reservations run in two-hour blocks with a 15-minute grace period. Brunch replaces dinner on weekends.