Sushi Katsuei

Chef Aung Ko Win runs this West Village offshoot of his original Park Slope sushi bar, built around a nine-piece-and-handroll omakase format. Fish arrives from Tokyo's Tsukiji market, worked into Edo-mae nigiri with modern touches, including pieces like ocean trout, firefly squid, seared barracuda, and giant clam. Getting the full effect means sitting at the sushi bar rather than a table, since pieces there arrive one by one instead of all at once. Reservations run through Resy.