Bartolo

From the team behind Ernesto's, this Madrid-style taverna occupies three low-ceilinged rooms below street level on West 4th Street, with servers in matador-red ties moving through doorways built for one person at a time. The kitchen serves ajo blanco with melon, cristal bread topped with anchovies, and a bone-in steak alongside oxtails braised in red wine. Gazpacho comes out in a shot glass, and the staff will ask for the full order at the start of the meal rather than course by course.