L’incontro by Rocco

Rocco Sacramone came to the United States from Orsogna, Italy in 1970 and started as a dishwasher at fourteen, learning to cook from his mother Tina before opening this Upper East Side trattoria. He still works the vine-filled dining room some nights in a denim chef's jacket, stopping to suggest the spaghettone with nduja and a burrata foam or the truffled gnocchi di ricotta. The chicken parmesan gets ordered as often as the pasta, and the service is close enough to replace a dropped fork before you notice.