Emporio

A dining room on Mott Street opens into a big back room lit by skylights and hung with black-and-white photographs, big enough to seat up to ninety without much trouble getting a table most nights. The kitchen makes its pasta in house and keeps the pizza thin and cracker-crisp in the Roman style, topped with San Marzano tomato and buffalo mozzarella; the version with sausage, honey and shaved pecorino is the one regulars order. Weekend brunch and a full wine and cocktail list round out the menu.