
Two chefs named Tom, Tom Lei of Spy C in Forest Hills and Tom Lo, a former anesthesiologist, opened Chi in Hell's Kitchen in 2022, built around Szechuan cooking with Cantonese, Hunanese and Beijing dishes mixed in. The kitchen borrows from outside Chinese cooking too: steamed pork belly comes with Castelvetrano olives, and minced crabmeat tofu gets a salted duck egg yolk sauce. Two dining rooms with leather furniture and slate gray walls lead to a front bar pouring baijiu and champagne.
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