Cubby's

Charles Guenancia, who goes by Chacho and once worked the line at Pastis, runs the counter at Cubby's on 10th Avenue. The smashburgers come stacked on pillowy milk bread instead of the usual potato bun, and an off-menu chopped cheese named after him isn't listed on the board at all. The Sylvester piles special sauce, thin raw onion and pickles onto a well-crusted patty. Board games sit out at the tables while orders come up from the counter, and a combo plate pairs a burger with fries, a canned soda and a scoop of ice cream.