Samwoojung

Since 1963, Samwoojung has cooked bulgogi in Seoul, and Hand Hospitality, the group behind Atomix and Ariari, brought the recipe to a Koreatown storefront on 32nd Street. Servers pile paper-thin beef onto a copper vessel with cabbage, mushrooms, noodles and scallions, then cook it tableside in a sweet, peppery soy broth. Banchan changes by the day, and a frozen persimmon bathed in honey over ricotta closes out the meal. Warmly lit and loud most nights, the split-level dining room fills with groups working through bottles of soju.