Sakagura

A walk through the lobby of an ordinary Midtown office building, past a security guard, and down a flight of stairs leads to this basement sake bar, which opened in 1996 as one of the city's first dedicated to the drink. The list runs past 200 bottles, organized by region rather than name recognition. Food stays izakaya-style and small: sashimi, soba, udon, a plate of Japanese fried chicken meant for sharing. Tables go fast, so calling ahead beats walking in.