The Fulton by Jean-Georges

At the tip of South Street Seaport, The Fulton by Jean-Georges spreads across two floors and hundreds of seats under a giant sea monster mural, with dock lines strung from the ceiling in place of chandeliers and a view of the Brooklyn Bridge from the water side. The kitchen works mostly raw and simple: seven kinds of crudo, sea scallops with a charred crust, soft shell crab. A whole black sea bass gets deboned tableside inside a pastry shell built just to hold it. Servers joke around and nobody wears a tie; reservations run through Resy.