Massara

Chef Stefano Secchi, also behind Rezdora, built this two-level Flatiron restaurant around the food of Campania, where he spent childhood summers. Downstairs is travertine floors and a wood-fired oven under a cavernous skylight; upstairs, olive-green walls and a marble-topped bar hold a more modern room. Most of the pasta is made in-house and portioned small enough to order two or three, from cold spaghetti with uni and raw red prawn to candele in a beef-shank ragu. Whole grilled branzino and a pork chop with pickled mustard seeds round out the larger plates.