Fiaschetteria Pistoia

This East Village outpost of a Tuscan restaurant family traces back to 1890 in Pistoia, Italy, and still runs on recipes handed down from that side's nonna. The wine list arrives literally: six or so bottles in a milk-bottle rack, tagged with price and varietal, backed by a wine cave downstairs stocked with regional Italian bottles, including Piedmont and Veneto reds. Reservations only go through the phone, no email or Resy, and the kitchen is best known for its handmade pasta, cacio e pepe and pappardelle al ragu among them, rather than its secondi.