Kelang

Chris Low runs this Greenpoint dining room with his family, who also own Hainanese Chicken House in Sunset Park; they built the space themselves, laying the floor and hanging family photos and ephemera from the Malaysian city it's named for. Red banquettes and honeycombed mirrors ring a circular bar. The kitchen sends out oxtail rendang, whole Hainanese chicken, and a paratha topped with stracciatella and set on red lentil dal. Tables aren't hard to come by most nights, and the bar seats walk-ins.