Empellon Al Pastor (Murray Hill)

Across from Tompkins Square Park on St. Marks Place, chef Alex Stupak's taco counter splits its room in two: order food at one end, alcohol at the other. The al pastor comes spit-cooked with pineapple on house-made corn tortillas ground from Mexican corn, alongside a mushroom and cactus version for anyone skipping meat. Seventeen beers rotate on tap next to a full mezcal and tequila list and a michelada built to order. A different special goes up every Thursday and disappears within the week, so the board rarely repeats itself.