Juliana's

Pasquale 'Patsy' Grimaldi named this pizzeria after his mother when he reopened in 2012, in the same coal-oven space where he first opened Grimaldi's in 1990 before selling that name. The oven chars the crust deeply, closer to a savory cracker than bread, under a bright, minimally seasoned tomato sauce and pulls of fresh mozzarella. There are no slices — order a whole pie and watch it pulled from the oven at the back of the dining room. It also ships pies nationwide through Goldbelly for anyone who can't make it to Old Fulton Street.