Gus & Marty's

Mountainside architecture from Naousa in northern Greece, not the blue-and-white of Santorini, shaped the look of this Williamsburg taverna, which husband-and-wife owners Sarah Schneider and Demetri Makoulis named after their fathers. Family photographs from both sides line the walls. The kitchen sends out bread from a visible oven, a trio of dips built to go with it, and fried anchovies battered and served with lemon, alongside natural Greek wines poured by the glass. The 65-seat dining room runs loud and cement-walled, and a big group ends up yelling to be heard across the table.