
Coal has fired the oven at this DUMBO pizzeria since 1990, through a sale, a franchise deal, and a move a block over to 1 Front Street from its spot under the Brooklyn Bridge. Whole pies only, no slices, come out topped with stretchy mozzarella and an oregano-heavy tomato sauce, though the crust doesn't always hit the char it once did. Gingham tablecloths and black-and-white photographs of the neighborhood cover a dining room built around an open kitchen. Weekend lines wrap the block, so a weekday lunch is the way to skip the wait.
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