The Freakin Rican

Derick Lopez runs this Astoria spot with his husband Victor Vargas, having grown it from a food truck into a brick-and-mortar wedged between a laundromat and a pub. The kitchen makes pasteles from scratch (silkier than tamales, with no corn in the masa) alongside alcapurrias, mofongo, and tembleque, plus homemade sofrito sold by the jar for cooking at home. The room is small enough that it fills up fast, and the couple is often out front greeting regulars.