
Since 1983, this Upper West Side brasserie has served a French onion soup rich enough that finishing it makes a mess, alongside steak frites and profiteroles under red leather booths and dim lighting. The crowd is part of the draw: Fran Lebowitz has been spotted taking meetings here, tucked into a corner booth with two very tall companions. Reservations run through OpenTable, at a restaurant that has held its corner of the neighborhood for more than four decades.
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