Charlie Bird

A corner of Sixth Avenue and King Street in SoHo holds Charlie Bird, built around modern Italian-American cooking and a wine list deep enough that the kitchen will pull a half bottle of nearly anything on it if asked. Dishes lean toward composed plates like a farro salad built from a long list of small additions, or razor clams with fennel and Calabrian chilis. It suits ordering a few small plates and a couple of glasses of pinot rather than committing to one big entree. Reservations run through SevenRooms.