Water Grill

Where Santa Monica Boulevard meets the Pacific, Water Grill's dining room is lined with subway tile, diagrams of old ships and leather booths that face windows onto the ocean. The raw bar is the strongest reason to go: oysters from both coasts, and a shellfish tower that stacks clams, scallops, shrimp, mussels and half a lobster onto one platter. The kitchen also grills whole fish simply, with butter and capers. Valet parking comes with a corkage allowance of one bottle per table.