The Brigantine

Opened by the Morton family on Shelter Island in 1969 and grown since into two dozen restaurants across the county, Brigantine's Embarcadero location sits inside the glass-fronted building at Portside Pier, close enough to the Star of India that diners can nearly touch her hull, with the Midway and the active-duty carriers at North Island filling out the rest of the bay view. The kitchen built its reputation on West Coast seafood: clam chowder, grilled swordfish, a creme brûlée for dessert. Happy hour runs oysters on the half shell, calamari, and sliders of ahi tuna, Wagyu beef and pulled pork, paired with discounted drafts and house wine.