Down the Hatch

The wings are ranked by heat from mild up to something the menu calls abusive and, at the top, suicidal, at this basement bar on West 4th Street. A weekend special turns them into an all-you-can-eat deal alongside pitchers of beer. Sports plays on screens throughout the front room, while a back room behind a velvet rope holds high-top tables under exposed brick and strings of lights. It draws a young, loud, after-work crowd that fills the room most nights of the week.