Weather Up

Subway tile runs across the ceiling and the bar is copper-colored in this long, dimly lit room built around a run of booths on Duane Street. House cocktails lean unusual, with beet, apricot and coconut turning up alongside the classics, and the kitchen keeps to caviar, oysters, a mackerel ceviche and housemade potato chips, nothing more filling. The long booths work as well for a group as for two people splitting a plate of chips.