F&Bar

Behind an unmarked door off a parking-lot alley in Atwater Village, a steep staircase climbs to a room done up like an abandoned arcade, with vintage games, a giant disco ball, and a saloon-style bar strung with mismatched light bulbs. Chef John Gladish runs the space as a twelve-course pairing menu, matching mini cocktails built from spirits like bison grass vodka or aged rum to bites the size of a cracker — a shrimp tamale, an oyster with basil foam, a single escargot. Seating tops out at nine, and the night runs about two hours, booked through Tock.