All Roads

Light pours through floor-to-ceiling windows onto a beige dining room at this Roman pinseria and wine bar from the team behind Toscana down the street. The crust shatters like inflated focaccia under a thick layer of pomodoro, topped with anchovies, sausage or handfuls of porcini; the fried artichokes come out with golden, crispy leaves. There are no reservations and no white tablecloths, servers check in every few minutes, and validated parking sits across the street.