Yerord Mas Bakery & Deli

Arthur Grigoryan ran this as a pop-up out of his family's house in Sherman Oaks from 2018, and his basturma pita, brisket brined two weeks and smoked twelve hours, had already drawn crowds at Smorgasburg before he took over a former strip-mall donut stand. Six small tables, a sign reading no takeout, and a menu tracing his family through Armenia, Syria and Egypt: pistachio hummus from a 14th-century recipe, raw chi kyuftah under Aleppo-pepper chili crisp. Ordering can take a while.