Cold Shoulder

The way in is through Blue Collar, its sister bar on South Fairfax, where a sliding bookshelf on the right wall opens onto a wood-paneled room hung upside down: bar stools and tables fixed to the ceiling, presidential portraits flipped on the walls. Actor Vincent Laresca owns both. The 36 cocktails in the illustrated hardcover menu came from Blue Collar's card file of drinks regulars asked for, and some, like the Bananas Foster, come on a platter with ice cream and bacon. Parties under six are seated first come, and on weekend nights you'll need the password from the Blue Collar host.