SHŌSH

On our lists of the best cozy restaurants and special-occasion restaurants in New York.

A West Village storefront that once housed Angelina's, an Italian restaurant that ran there from 1936 to 1986, now serves plant-based Mediterranean and Middle Eastern mezze named for chef Anat Sror's mother, Shoshana. Sror, who has cooked in New York for more than 25 years and previously ran Cafe Petisco on the Lower East Side, built the menu around fresh vegetables rather than substitutes for meat. Seating runs close together around an open kitchen, with wooden tables and rattan chairs, and dinner runs Tuesday through Sunday from 5 to 11.