Spice Affair

The tandoor does much of the work at this Indian restaurant on La Cienega's Restaurant Row: ginger-marinated lamb chops, sea bass with Kashmiri chili, and the shredded tandoori chicken that goes into the butter chicken. A single lamb biryani feeds two. The dining room is big, with round booths and water features, and a banquet hall with its own entrance handles the parties. Cocktails lean on the spice rack: cardamom bitters in one, saffron and pistachio in a chai liqueur drink.