Hinoki and the Bird

The black cod arrives under a smoldering sheet of hinoki, the Japanese cypress in the restaurant's name, and the lobster roll comes on a charcoal-black brioche bun with green curry aioli. It sits behind a heavy door on the ground floor of The Century, a Century City condominium tower. The bar and an open kitchen face each other across a wood-paneled room, and the patio under its retractable roof is nearly as big; with that much wood, glass and concrete, it can get loud. Reservations are encouraged, walk-ins are taken, and parking is valet only.