Bacetti Trattoria

Under the bow-truss roof of a 1920s building on Echo Park Avenue that had never been a restaurant, this trattoria puts dark green booths and terrazzo tables in front of a glass-walled kitchen. Everything is served family-style. The Roman menu opens with a round focaccia ebraica, studded with olives and currants, and moves on to cacio e pepe, carbonara and whole branzino. Some tables are held for walk-ins each night. Next door, in the old Tilda wine bar, Bar Bacetti pours spritzes and serves pizza, and the two share a sidewalk patio.