
Octavio Olivas, a former lawyer, has worked this 28-seat Hyperion raw bar alone since 2024, slicing fish at the green marble counter, taking orders, pouring Austrian wine and Mexican sake and changing the cumbia records. Book ahead and try for a counter seat to watch him build kanpachi tostadas and shrimp aguachile, which comes rojo, verde or negro. With one person doing everything, courses can land fifteen minutes apart. A few more tables sit by the front window and out on the sidewalk, and dessert is a chocolate-covered peanut butter ball.
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