Kobawoo House

In suite 109 of Seven Vermont Plaza, the strip mall at 7th and Vermont, this wood-beamed Korean dining room has been serving bossam since the 1980s. It comes as a platter of sliced pork belly with napa cabbage, radish, kimchi and salted shrimp, and you build each wrap yourself. Purple rice and banchan land first; past the bossam, look for the seafood pancake, kimchi stew with beef and pork belly, and cold acorn noodles in gochujang. At lunch there are one-person portions of bossam and stew.