Capo

The kitchen cooks over almond wood and a corner fireplace, in a signless one-story building on Ocean Avenue with sixteen tables, high beams and candles. Bruce Marder opened it in 1998. Pasta is made in house, and the cellar runs past 2,500 selections, a Wine Spectator Grand Award holder every year since 2015. There's a heated covered patio, and seating is limited enough that the restaurant asks people to call ahead.