SUGARFISH by Sushi Nozawa

There's no California roll or spicy tuna here, and asking for a substitution won't get you far — the set menus follow the rules Kazunori Nozawa set at his now-closed Sushi Nozawa in Studio City. The choices run from a scaled-down Trust Me Lite up through the Nozawa and the Don't Think Just Eat, each a fixed sequence rather than an à la carte order. Rice arrives warm, and the ponzu is made in house rather than bought.