Sunday Gravy

A brother-and-sister team took over their father's neighborhood pizzeria in Inglewood and turned it into this red-sauce Italian-American spot, keeping the red-checkered paper and faded brick walls. Pasta comes from Florentyna's and bread from Cadoro Bakery, both made nearby, going into dishes like spaghetti under meatballs the size of billiard balls and a bread pudding built on King's Hawaiian rolls. Once a table opens the kitchen moves fast, though waits can run to thirty minutes on a busy night - the hostess sometimes pours a complimentary glass of orange wine on the patio while you stand by.