Kenbey Sushi

Wedged between a pizza place and a pet store on Sunset Boulevard, this 26-seat restaurant runs its omakase through chef Kenji Koyama, who trained in Tokyo and Los Angeles over more than two decades. The tasting menu moves through roughly five hot courses before eight pieces of sushi, with the kitchen blowtorching, grilling and frying to a soundtrack the chefs pick themselves. A seat here is easier to get than at the Westside's bigger-name omakase counters, for diners who'd rather not leave the Silver Lake-Echo Park area.