Ghisallo

Completely hidden from the sidewalk, a back patio strung with lights sits under a pepper tree, filling most nights with family dinners, dates and running-club friends. The kitchen turns out Neapolitan pizzas with a puffy, springy crust alongside thin, New York-style slices sold by the counter at lunch. Chef Casey Lane, previously of Tasting Kitchen and Viale de Romani, took over the kitchen, working alongside baker Jyan Horwitz next door. The wine list runs affordable for the neighborhood, and reservations are recommended for the patio.